is a town situated at the confluence of the Crocodile and Komati Rivers in Mpumalanga province, South Africa. The town is 8 km from the Crocodile Bridge Gate into the Kruger Park, and just 5 km from the Mozambique border and 65 km from the Eswatini border. It is a small, quiet town within the Lowveld with some attractive tree lined streets.
It is one of the hottest towns in South Africa where temperatures can reach almost 48°C (47.7 °C (117.9 °F) on 12 December 1944) in the height of summer, but also with a perfect winter climate around 24 °C (75 °F).
‘Komati’ also takes its name from KHOIKHOI, one of RSA First languages and once the wealthiest cattle owners on this land, ‘koma’ meaning cows and ‘ti’ meaning my.
‘Komati’ takes its name from the Komati River whose original native Swazi name is Nkomazi, translated as “river of cows”. It is where the Crocodile and Komati Rivers meet to flow through the ‘Poort’ (mountain pass) through the Lebombo Mountains into Mozambique.
In the 1890s Komatipoort of those days was a wild and uproarious construction camp for the railway being built from Lourenco Marques (modern Maputo). Conditions weren’t the best with the area was gripped by a malaria epidemic; it was in the zone called ‘fever country’.
Komatipoort was the last stop in the South African Republic (ZAR) Pretoria – Delagoa Bay Line constructed by the Netherlands-South African Railway Company (NZASM) with the first train crossing the border at Komatipoort from the ZAR to Portuguese East Africa on 1 July 1891 after the completion of the rail bridge over the Komati River.
Between 1900 and 1902 during the Anglo/Boer War, the town was used as a base by Major F Von Steinaecker and his group known as ‘Steinaecker’s Horse’.
They were a bunch of mercenaries and bushwhackers and were recruited by the British in order to fight Boer guerrillas in the bushveld.Near Komatipoort is the site where the former Mozambique’s President Samora Machel died in a plane crash at Mbuzini village in the Lebombo mountain, the natural barrier between South Africa and Mozambique. At the site of the accident stands the Samora Machel Monument. The Nkomati Accord was signed in Komatipoort in 1984.
CHRONOLOGICAL HISTORY OF KOMATIPOORT
Iron Age
The Komatipoort artefacts are not yet explored, subject to funding research would continue. On the Lebombo mountains (ubomb0 – meaning direction) South of Komatipoort, residues that date back to life in the Iron Age has been discovered.
Bushmen
The original inhabitants of the region around Komatipoort were the diminutive and golden skinned Bushmen. In the Kruger Park the Bushman Walking Trails are the best way to see and marvel at a fraction of this artistic treasure.
Swazis and Shangans
Present day: one of the huts of the family of Nkosi Mlambo II, Nkomazi South (Mbuzini). The Mfecane or scattering that resulted in Natal from Shaka’s warring on his neighbours causing breakaway groupings seeking to escape Shaka’s violence, resulted in amongst others tribes born from this process: the Gaza people under Shoshangane in Mozambique; the Ngwane people under Chief Sobhuza who withdrew into the mountain fastnesses north of Zululand – eventually becoming known as Swazi after another chief, Umswazi, and the baShangaan. The Swazi people under the reign of Nkosi (King) Mlambo II are conservative in their continued cultural living and continuing tradition.
The first Europeans that entered the Lowveld was an expedition of 31 men led by Frans de Kuiper. They left Fort Lagoa on 27 June 1725 and reached Ressano Garcia, east of Komatipoort, on the 4 July 1725, and entered Mpumalanga (formerly Eastern Transvaal) soil the next day. On 6 July they crossed the Komati River close to the farm Coopersdal, 6 km south-west of Komatipoort and tried to obtain a guide, but were unsuccessful as Chief Coupane gave specific instructions that the expedition must not be shown the trading route to the interior and Limpopo (formerly Northern Transvaal). On the 9 July they began travelling north and obtained a guide from Chief Alari Motsari living next to the Moetji River (the present Ngweti Creek), south-west of Komatipoort and crossed the Crocodile River, approximately 3 km north-east of the Crocodile Bridge Rest Camp in the Kruger National Park. They travelled until they reached Gomondwana, 12 km northwest of Crocodile Bridge, where they were attacked by the local inhabitants and were forced to return to Fort Lagoa which they reached on Monday 16 July 1725.A century would elapse before Whites would again enter the Lowveld. This was when the Hans van Rensburg expedition tried to find a way to the sea. During the middle of the nineteenth century Afrikaans Voortrekkers began to arrive in the region seeking freedom from the imposition of British rule in the Cape. This trickle of settlers eventually lead to the formation of the Transvaal Republic. In time the Transvaal and the Orange State united to form the South African Republic. Transvaal Land Commissioner Abel Erasmus served on a committee in the 1880s to neutrally determine the borders between Portuguese East Africa and Swaziland, and he hatched a deal with an unnamed Swazi chieftain which pushed the Swazi border back an average of 80km to the south of the Crocodile River.
During 1887 French Bob moved from Barberton to the Northern Transvaal to prospect for gold in that area, and discovered gold near Gravelotte, which became the Selati Goldfields. . The discovery of gold in the Selati region served as impetus to a plan to build a branch line from the main Oosterlijn (the abovementioned Johannesburg to Lourenço Marques line) to service the goldfields. The plan for this branch line, destined to run from Komatipoort to Lydenburg, was hatched between Baron Eugene Oppenheim and his brother Robert and corrupt officials of the Transvaal government.
The term ‘con men’ would be a flattering one for Eugene and Robert: paid for by the mile their railway included more than 40 miles of unnecessary loops and was therefore as crooked as they were.
The Selati goldfields singularly failed to reach their assumed poten so, for the most part, the line was a very expensive, white elephant. A segment of this heritage line is available for public viewing; next to the Hervormde Kerk in Liebenberg street. Remains of the railway line crossing over the Crocodile river as one enters the current Crocodile Bridge Kruger National Park. During the 2000 floods a portion of the line was washed away.
Proclamation of the town Komatipoort 11 April 1899When the so-called Oosterlijn railway line between Komatipoort and Pretoria was completed in 1895, it was assumed Komatipoort would become an active railway terminal. WH Gilfillian, the Government Surveyor, prepared a town plan for Komatipoort and it was proclaimed a town on 11 April 1899.
The name of the town is derived from the Swazi named ‘Komati’ river, meaning literally ‘river of cows’ (or with a uniquely African multiplicity of meaning – ‘hippos’) and the Afrikaans term ‘poort’ meaning valley. As the Lowveld was famously hot and malaria ridden there had been little temptation for Europeans to settle here.
Anglo Boer War – 1899-1903 – Steinaeckers’ HorseOne unplanned utilisation of the Selati line was by Steinaecker’s Horse during the second Anglo-Boer war 1899 – 1902. Francis Christian Ludwig von Steinaecker may well be the brightest hued individual in an area that has seen more than is fair share of colourful characters. A pint-sized Bavarian who had served in the Prussian army he was hook-nosed, bushy eye-browed and affected an eccentric uniform of his own design. Bill Woolmore launched his biography of Steinaeckers’ Horsemen in Komatipoort. Together with Hans Bornman’s Pioneers of the Lowveld ,these authors very well captured the Komatipoort history. Taking the British cause in the war he raised a company of irregular horseman, basing himself in luckless Komatipoort for the duration. His instruction to blast the Oosterlijn was withdrawn but a day or two prior to the intended operation. During the war the Selati line was operated by Steinaecker’s men, the engine being initially operated by Trooper Tom Boyd – who unfortunately ‘died of drink’ in Komatipoort in 1902. On the September 23, 1900 during the Second Boer War, 3,000 Boers crossed the frontier at the small town of Komati Poort, and surrendered to the Portuguese authorities. On November 7, 1900 the banks of the Komati became the site of a battle between the British Empire and the Boers. The Battle of Leliefontein was a retreat by the British, harassed by the Boers, who were threatening to capture the British Artillery. The British guns were saved by the Royal Canadian Dragoons who charged the Boers, whereby they placed the guns out of their reach.
Birth of the Kruger National Park 1884 – Whilst Steinaecker’s Horse occupied the area, Komatipoort, and its surrounds, living off the land the troopers slaughtered buck by the thousands with the large carnivores habitually shot as vermin. The battle was not entirely one-sided as 12 of Steinaecker’s men were reputedly killed by lion or crocodile during the course of the war. As early as 1884 President Paul Kruger of the South African Republic had indicated a concern that large wild animals were on the verge of being hunted out of the Lowveld. This was then an unpromising environment for the arrival in 1902 of surely the greatest hero of South African conservation, James Stevenson-Hamilton.
It was to take decades and the work of numerous others before those concerns were addressed. Tasked with this great enterprise as his life’s work, Stevenson-Hamilton put together his team.Included here was Harry Wolhuter, the first and undoubtedly the most famous Game Ranger in Kruger Park history. Another ex-Steinaecker’s Horseman, Wolhuter was in 1904, shortly after nightfall, riding his horse on what is today the S35 in the Kruger Park.
He was attacked by two male lions and dragged by one of them 100 metres into the bush. Fighting shock and unconsciousness, Wolhuter managed to stab the lion to death and then climb a tree before the second lion left feasting on his horse to come after him. Wolhuter expressed gratitude to his dog Bull who was seemingly instrumental in both keeping the second lion distracted and attracting the attention of assistant rangers who carried the stricken man to Komatipoort.
During 1903 10,000 square miles were added to the original reserve. Clearing native peoples from the newly proclaimed conservation areas lead to Stevenson-Hamilton being named Skukuza by the Africans – meaning he ‘who sweeps clean.’
Emerging farming 1904 onwards to the World WarThe patent success of the conservation effort lead to the continuing renewal of loan rights over farm lands. With the World War 1914-18, manpower resources for the reserve were denuded. Poaching became epidemic. These setbacks called into question the whole sustainability of the project and grants of grazing rights to farmers and prospecting rights to farmers began to be made.Eco Tourism and the Kruger Park – 1920-1950In the end the first eco-tourists saved the day. South African Railways began special tours through the region, halting the trains so that passengers could enjoy the spectacle of the wildlife.
This lead to an upsurge of interest across South Africa and the passing of the National Parks Act in 1926. Roads began to be built in 1927 and in 1928 the Kruger National Park was first opened to the public. In that first year some 200 cars availed themselves of the new road access. Stevenson-Hamilton was frankly amazed at this level of popularity. Overnight visitors in those early days were allocated the living accommodation of the rangers – who consequently camped. Surely a far cry from the sophisticated infrastructure that supports the 1 million plus visitors that the Kruger Park now receives each year.
Mkonto Causeway 1925“Mkonto” means “spear”. Capt George Joseph Elphick (1862-1929), British Officer developed a habit to always carry a small spear with him, and soon he was known to all and called “Mkonto” (including family). In the Lowveld Elphick’s farm was the only farm in the whole of the area from Kaapmuiden to Komatipoort and from the Crocodile River to Swaziland, when farming commenced. He caused this causeway to be built over the Komati River at Komatipoort, enabling cars to travel through to Lourenço Marques (Maputo). Mkonto died in the Barberton Hospital on 15 February 1929 and did not live to be present at the opening ceremony, but in recognition to his unflagging service to the Lowveld the bridge was named “Mkonto Causeway” after him. Independent traffic count studies indicate more than 2000 vehicles presently pass over this bridge, daily , except when flooded! Farming sprouting during the period of Stevenson-Hamilton’s endeavours -1970.
The area around Komatipoort became farming land – relatively cheap land grants were given to whites. Sugar, bananas and citrus became paying crops in the largely tropical environment.From border crossing town, to border frontline: 1974 -1994: Portuguese Exit MozambiqueThe rapid exit of the Portuguese from Mozambique in 1974 lead to socialist and soviet-backed, RENAMO government in Mozambique under Samora Machel. This new regime was not at all friendly to Apartheid South Africa. South Africa (and the CIA) set about supporting RENAMO’s opposition – FRELIMO. The resultant civil war was brutal and long, leading to a country sown with landmines, thousands of crippled civilians and economic meltdown. Almost overnight, Komatipoort went from being an important border crossing between friendly states to being the road to nowhere and on an unofficial frontline.
The Accord of Nkomazi 1984Within South Africa resistance against the apartheid government mounted in tension with the uprising of the ANC and its allies abroad – also communism. Mozambique supported the ANC, whilst South Africa supplied arms and support to RENAMO within Mozambique. The Nkomati Accord was a nonaggression treaty signed on 16 March 1984 between the government of the People’s Republic of Mozambique and the government of the Republic of South Africa. The event took place at the South African town of Komatipoort with the signatories being Samora Machel and PW Botha.Despite repeated pleas from Machel for leaders of other SADCC nations to attend, the complete absence of any such heads of state demonstrated the derision the accord was viewed with from these nations. The treaty’s stated focus was on preventing Mozambique from supporting the African National Congress on the one hand, and South Africa from supplying the RENAMO on the other.However, Machel only partially honoured commitments to expel various ANC members from his territory, and the South African government continued to funnel arms and other supplies to RENAMO, allowing their destabilization of Mozambique to continue apace. A permanent peace accord, the Rome General Peace Accords, finally ended the Mozambican Civil War in 1992 and was supervised by the United Nations’ ONUMOZ force until 1994.
Smit poison tragedy in 1954 left Komatipoort in sorrow.
A local family who awaited a birthday cake (as was custom then) from Waterval Boven, discovered very late the cake would not arrive that day. In an attempt to make best of the situation, the mother of the birthday kid baked a cake. Unfortunately and not known or foreseen deadly poison became an ingredient too. The police discovered afterwards the arsine was contained in the icing sugar, bought from the local shop and applied to the cake. Consequently all attending the party by accident took in this deadly toxin. Of the 18 attendants 9 died. Situated within a malaria ridden environment, one of the attempts to combat malaria was the introduction of bat hotels, circa 1952, to attract and accommodate high densities of bats, that logically consume mosquitoes (carriers of malaria), and thus reduce the malaria threat. These two huge structures are the oldest and largest of their type in the Southern hemisphere. Ngwenya Lodge and some local guest house / residential owners continue the tradition. FloodsKomatipoort lived though two radical floods to date, the so-called Demonia and again anno 2000.
Komatipoort after 1994: farming, tourism and emerging industry – a gateway linking ‘4’ countries.
The advent of the New South Africa in 1994 has provided a much needed rebirth for Komatipoort. Stevenson-Hamilton’s park has achieved levels of popularity the great man could not have dreamed of. Combined with the establishment of TSB’s Komati Sugar Mill, the town and environment developed dynamically and Komatipoort again sits as a gateway between South Africa and its friendly, also democratic, neighbor Mozambique. Since 1998 Komatipoort has developed into a destination in own right. It demonstrates a mixture of land uses. Commercial farming continued and developed, irrespective of the land claims and restitution of land program. To a large extent Komatipoort still depends on agricultural activities. From 1998 to around 2018 the hospitality products owners had their hands full. Some guest houses and lodges catered for the full package of accommodation and activities – mostly field guided visits to the Kruger National Park. Hospitality made way for contractual stays, during the pandemic. Mostly border post related stays are entertained. Presently some of the best performing facilities are purely long term stay accommodation facilities to government or contractors and some cater for tourism. Most perform very well. The development of the Kambaku golf course and the quality of this facility is truly remarkable and a huge attraction for locals and visitors to Komatipoort.
Komatipoort is the retail hub not only for its own residents: Marloth Park, Nwenya Lodge, Mozambique and the South of Nkomazi buys most of their foods and products in Komatipoort. Retailers providing large quantities of particular products e.g. maize etc at low margins count a few, and all do well. Pedestrian buyers, buyers by bicycle and taxi commuters serve this market. They also buy from the informal traders that typically take up a lot of space in the core of the main street in town. The Komati Square centre was a game changer around 2000, and has been complimented 15 years later with the retail centre of the Moolman group. The Superspar presents products to the whole range of buyers, also products the high-end consumer desires. Warehousing is popular and the demand for this has no end. The town enjoys excellent medical services provision in remarkable practitioners. Linked to the doctors are a permanent pathological laboratory and the loc al pharmacist that only changed hands once since 1998. More than 50% of the market depends on and enjoys Mozambican support. Komatipoort Akademie and the Cromati School have been the only primary and secondary schools for long, complimented with Kwetternes Kleuterskool. Since 2010 independent schools developed. Presently the town enjoys 4 preparatory schools and several day care providers. Not only the South African curriculum is presented, also Cambridge.The Dry Port facility is active. End of 2022 more than 1800 freight trucks drive through the border post. The expectancy is the number will be closer to 3000 by end of 2024. This unexpected growth caught Komatipoort off guard and enjoys institutional attention. Unfortunately, red tape and lack of state funds and lack of private sector provision and foresight led to severe congestions and sometimes gridlocks at the entrance of the town and towards the border gate on the N4. It enjoys the full attention of the Chamber and all relevant parties.
In Komatipoort demand exceeds supply when it gets to residential stay. Since 2008 several residential 3 buildings were developed and all are filled.Komatipoort develops into a city. All indicators are that by 2035 the density may have increased from 3000 to around 30 000 people. It is a growth point in the province. The SEZ development is key to this dramatic change. It is balanced off with the up-market development of the Kruger National Park front wildlife estate.By 2010 Komatipoort town has a well established one stop retail core, has lived through radical property appreciation (up to 400% during the early 2000’s), with a safe, tranquil residential area.
Komatipoort takes pride in its 12 tee golf course adjacent to the confluence of the Komati and Crocodile rivers and overlooking Kruger National Park,The Kruger National park front Kumbako golf course and dynamic tourism products, including 17 guest houses and lodges, and well Kruger National Park front residential living vested tour operators providing guided tours into Kruger Park, Mozambique and Swaziland.
The tarring of the roads in-between Marloth Park and Komatipoort and the same in-between Marloth park and the concession so called Maputo Corridor, a consequence of the pressure from the local combined chamber of commerce and tourism association Neccta (Nkomazi East Combined Commerce and Tourism Association), as well as the consequential elevation of the low water Crocodile Bridge; and the continued progressive and dynamic development of the town and surrounds, promise dynamic growth of this valuable green hub of South Africa.Acknowledgements History Contents: Bornman Pioneers of the Lowveld 1995; Woolmore Steinaecker’s Horse 2006; Wikipedia, etc. Extraction and presentation: Jan Engelbrecht
